Ericeira Days: A Visit to Portugal’s Surf Capital
Praia Do Sul
First Impressions:
meu deus, a ericeira é linda
I arrived in Ericeira in April, when temperatures on the tail ends of the day are too brisk to don my standard board shorts and t-shirt beach town attire. But in the afternoons it warms up and the sun lights up a majestic scene of old-world Europe overlooking barreling waves as far as the eye can see. The water is 61 degrees, which feels terrific for short swims but requires a wetsuit for extended surf sessions.
I am drawn to Ericeira for the waves, no doubt, but also because I keep seeing it on internet lists of top places for the vibrant new “digital nomad” community to visit. I am eager to meet new people, practice my quickly declining Brazilian Portuguese skills, and check out the local wine and dining scene.
Ericeira rests just a couple of kilometers outside of picturesque farmland on one end, and a sweeping, daunting scene of rock cliffs overlooking the ocean on the other. Right in the middle is the town – a small fishing village composed of cobblestone streets, quaint, colorful homes and buildings, and small cafes and restaurants.
An air siren reminiscent of WWII films sounds each day at noon, and the town comes to life for the day. Restaurants open and the city's numerous ice cream shops (so, so many of them) and cafes begin to fill.
The internet’s hottest new blogger confidently approaches the water.
Gettin’ Stoked:
As old-world as it feels, make no mistake: Ericeira is the surfing capital of the country – if not the continent – and you can’t walk down the street without hearing the competing accents and languages of visitors from around the world eager to get in the water.
Real Talk: I consider myself a (lesser) intermediate surfer. The waves in Portugal are no joke and can be intimidating.
But there are many options here for beginner surfers, with multiple surf schools and opportunities for lessons. There are some small beach breaks and protected bays that allow beginners to try to stand on 1-3 foot waves.
And there are many options for more advanced surfers as well, with several outside breaks rising in the 8-10 foot range while I was here.
At the intermediate level, it can be difficult to find breaks that weren’t too advanced. I had a couple of sessions that felt like beatdowns, though any day in the water is better than [insert most anything].
What to Know:
Praia dos Pescadores
Ericeira is a short 45-minute Uber ride from Lisbon airport. English is widely spoken by residents and travelers around town. The city itself is easy to navigate on foot, but a car would be helpful for surveying the different surf spots and seeing some of the nearby sites and towns. Ubers are cheap and readily available around the city.
Portugal is very inexpensive for a European country. Meals at most moderately upscale restaurants are 15-20 Euros. They do not mark up their alcohol sales the way we do in the USA, so a glass of wine with dinner usually only costs 4-5 Euros.
Aside from surfing, Ericeira offers excellent restaurants, especially for seafood. There is shopping in the downtown area, and a couple of markets that offer trinkets, jewelry, and clothing. Promoted activities around the area include bike rides, wine tasting, and even some bouldering and top roping.
There are several beaches for laying out and meeting people, including Praia dos Pescadores, which is located right downtown. While Ericeira itself can be navigated by foot, a car is advisable for exploring the area and easily checking out the best surf breaks for the day. It also offers the opportunity for day trips to places like Nazaré and Sintra.
Is Ericeira Right For you?
Who should go to Ericeira? Surfers, digital nomads, and anyone looking to relax. It would certainly be an ideal location for a romantic getaway or a safe family visit. But all should have an interest in at least trying a lesson in this mecca for surf.
Who should not go? While there are opportunities for nightlife, it has a sleepy feel and would not be an ideal location for bachelor/bachelorette parties, or anyone looking to rage. However, staying in Lisbon affords more party opportunities and is a short drive away from Ericeira for daytime surfing opportunities.
A Dutch backpacker snaps a shot of an unsuspecting blogger researching a future post by the pool at Selina Ericeira.
Where to stay:
I stayed at the Selina Boavista Ericeira and would recommend it for solo travelers or anyone looking to make new friends. Highlights were a daily yoga class, an evening “welcome drink” to meet new guests, and a very friendly staff that helped with surfing and restaurant recommendations, as well as offering some freelance photography help for the blog (@soultywater). During my stay, I met folks from around the world, including a girls’ trip from Canada, a very stressed Austrian in desperate need of a vaca, a Dutch backpacker who regaled us on the hotel piano, and a couple from Germany on a one night stay during a cross-continent bike ride.
The Vila Galé Ericeira is spoken highly of in travel circles and would make a more upscale choice for couples or families. It has an excellent buffet breakfast and overlooks the surf at Praia do Sul (pictured at the top).
There are also many reasonably priced Airbnb options, including in some charming buildings in the city center.
HAWT TIP —> Keep it tight at Rep Centro de Fitness Ericeira. They offer day passes to use their Weights, cardio machines, and Crossfit facility.
Ericeira Restaurant Hits:
Grilled Salmon at Casa Portuguesa
Casa Portuguesa: I dined here three times and it was packed every night. In particular, the grilled salmon was terrific.
Taberna Lebre: A steak sandwich and burger shop that was highly recommended by the hotel concierge. I went back twice for a slammin’ spicy steak sandwich with guacamole.
Tia Matilde: For the spectacular cliffside view in the backyard dining area. The shrimp curry was also muito bom.
Restaurante Mammy: Excellent service and near fine dining level at a reasonable cost. The bread was especially delicious, as was the braised tuna and tomato risotto. Word of caution: the bathroom door reads: “Usage Limite A 5 Min.”
Doghouse Social Club — Well positioned on the main town square for people watching and drinks. Say hello to Jack, the restaurant’s English Bull Dog.
Ribas Marisqueria— For something more upscale. The Grouper was excellent and there is an aquarium to entertain the kids and dogs.
Praia do Matadouro
What I learned on this trip:
Primeiro: Having a blog is a great way to meet people and adds to the adventure. In a town of travelers, people immediately get why I started it and are interested to learn more. I also recognize how the blog will change the nature of my traveling: it forces me to be more explorative and is making me learn new skills, such as photography and taking quick notes like a reporter.
Segundo: Contrary to what I have been told to expect, and even though I’ve been learning Brazilian Portuguese, I found it easier to understand Portuguese in Portugal than in Brazil.
Terceiro: Portugal’s waves don’t mess around. They are big and powerful and there are some amazing surfers here, pulling airs and dancing on the tops of monsters. I will return better prepared to dominate.
O Fim
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